Turkey Day 1 - Istanbul : Arrival, Sema at Sirkeci

After a long flight from Hong Kong to Doha, and then Doha to Istanbul, we were finally in a cab on our way to the Sari Konak Hotel, having arranged for them to send a car to pick us up. Under a perfect Mediterranean blue sky and redolent breeze, we were soon riding parallel to the majestic Bosphorus looking at the skyline with hills, bridges and minarets opening up in front of us. Within 20 minutes we turned inward towards the old Sultanahmet district and drove up winding narrow streets to the Hotel. 

We checked in and collected our tickets for the Whirling Dervish sema ceremony at the train station from Mustafa at the front desk, as the hotel had reserved them for us in advance. Post a short rest for a few hours we emerged in the late afternoon sun and elected to walk to the train station.

The very first sight as soon as we emerged from our little street just off the Aya Sofya Maydani was the first postcard perfect view of the magnificent Blue Mosque. 

Directly opposite the Blue Mosque, across gardens filled with fountains and people relaxing on a lazy Saturday afternoon is the imposing bulk of the Aya Sofya.
We followed the tramlines along an undulating and gently downward sloping route towards the railway station, reaching it in about 15 minutes. The Sirkeci railway station is currently operating but is scheduled to be closed soon to be converted into a museum. It was the starting point for the legendary Orient Express.
Inside the grand waiting hall of the station while waiting for the ceremony to begin, I read the pamphlet enclosed with the ticket to understand more of what we were going to see. The Whirling Dervishes belong to the Mevalana Sufi sect and they believe in peace and goodwill and the constant striving to achieve oneness with God. 
The ceremony started with the entrance of the musicians and singers dressed in the traditional costumes of long black cloaks over white flowing garments and the signature cream headgear. The first few minutes were spent in invoking the name of God through Sufi hymns.
After that, the Dervishes entered. There were 5 of them and they would go through 5 rounds of whirling. They spread sheepskins on the floor and bowed to the audience and each other before removing their black cloaks.
In each cycle, the dervishes would slowly start spinning at first with their arms folded and then finally in the classic position of arms outstretched above with one palm pointing upwards and the other downwards signifying that whatever they get, they get from God and they pass it on to their fellow human beings without retaining anything for themselves. The dervishes believe that the very act of rotating helps them to empty their mind of worldly thoughts and allows them to achieve union with God.
The ceremony lasted about 45 minutes, after which we elected to take the tram back the two short stops. We bought the tram tokens or jetons from the manned ticket counters and were back in no time. Since we were visiting in the month of Ramzan, the streets were alive with people thronging to cafes and food outlets to break their fasts, and the fact that it was a weekend only added to the general bonhomie.
Our first dinner in Istanbul just a couple of minutes away from the hotel with a streetside table to people watch comfortably. 

Turkey Day 2 - Istanbul : Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya and other sights in Sultanahmet

We started the day early after the hearty breakfast at the Sari Konak. The early morning meant not too many people were out and about when we stepped out of the hotel.

Today was going to be spent in the Sultanahmet area, and we decided to start with the Blue Mosque. The best time to visit is 9am-11am when the sun comes through the stain glass windows and lights up the magnificent interior.

All tourists are expected to use the side entrance to enter the mosque. Footwear must be removed, but plastic bag dispensers are provided at the entrance, so that one can carry ones footwear in one's hand. From then on, the corridor leading inside is carpeted. Women should be dressed modestly and carry a scarf or shawl to cover their heads and men have to ensure that their limbs are covered.

The interior of the mosque is truly magnificent. The mosque gets its name from the hundreds of thousands of Iznik tiles that cover just about every exposed surface. There are innumerable windows to allow for natural light. The imam's pulpit is magnificently carved. The mosque has many domes which can best be seen from the courtyard that one enters through. This is the only mosque other than the the one at the holy site of Medina to have 6 minarets in its design, most mosques have 4.

As we emerged into the mid morning sunshine, street vendors such as this chestnut seller had started plying their wares.

We made our way across the Maydani to the Aya Sofya. Once the largest church in Christendom, it was later converted into a mosque and is now a museum. In the gardens outside are stone fragments dating from the BC era. 

Building materials were bought from all over the country for the Aya Sofya which means that there are numerous little interesting things, such as the four pillars from the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus, and this huge marble urn, one of a pair, from Pergamum, situated on either side of the structure. There is also the famous healing aperture in the wall. It is said that at one point of time, holy water steeped through the opening curing all ailments and diseases. Legend is that if you stick your thumb in and are able to rotate your hand completely around, you will be cured of all disease.

The incredible size of the monument overwhelms the mind. Truly a spectacular architectural feat. This is best understood from the upper floor of the museum.

The upper floor is also where one finds the wonderful mosaics. When the church was converted into a mosque, the mosaics and frescoes were plastered over, which have actually enabled them to be protected and restored such as this wonderful panel, and more are likely to be restored in the future. 

This interesting mosaic over the doorway as one exits the structure shows the Aya Sofya on the one hand and the city of Constantinople on the other being offered and consecrated to the Virgin Mary.

Our next stop was located just minutes from the Aya Sofya. The Basilica Cistern dates back many years and was an underground water storing system. There was some feedback that I read that basically said that this was not worth a look, but we enjoyed it. After descending some stairs you come upon this vast underground cavern with numerous pillars, beautifully lit and with traditional music playing in the background. This was the location of the opening sequence of the James Bond movie "To Russia With Love". There is a system of walkways suspended over the reservoir, and these can get quite slippery so one must watch one's step.

The columns that make up the cistern basically were all the bits and bobs that were left over after the construction of the Aya Sofya, and therefore make for an interesting mix. There are Doric, Ionic and Corianthian columns all cheek by jowl. All the way at the back are the 2 famous Medusa heads, of which one has been installed on its side for no apparent reason. 

Running parallel to the Maydani is the Hippodrome, site of games and chariot races in ancient times. Today it is lined with verdant gardens which frame ancient monuments such as the Obelisk of Theodosius dating from 360AD, the Brazen Column, and the Serpentine Column representing the hydra which had golden heads which are not present today. The Obelisk is said to have come from Luxor, but this cannot be verified since the bottom part, which would have shown the pharoah's cartouche, was sheared during transportation. 

Having worked up an appetite we had lunch at the rooftop of Doy Doy restaurant located on a street behind the Blue Mosque. We grew quite used to the chilled glass of Ayran, so much like salted buttermilk, with lunch. 

The charming indoor gardens of the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art provide a respite from the coaches disgorging huge numbers of tourist tramping down the fabled routes. The Centre has, among other things,  a wonderful collection of carpets from all over the Islamic world and is a good place to begin to understand the complexities that go into this unique art form. Well worth a visit, and nice air con to beat the heat.

Late afternoon brings on the iftaar or evening meal to break the fast, in the numerous little stalls lining the Hippodrome. We stopped at one for a tea time snack of gozleme, the savoury pancakes which come with a variety of fillings. Mine was a delicious potato and mint combination, washed down with more ayran.

Back in our room at the Sari konak after a long hard day, just enough time to freshen up for dinner.

After a wonderful dinner of lentil soup and crepes at the Rumeli Cafe, just down the road from the Sultanahmet tram stop. 

Turkey Day 3 - Istanbul : Bosphorus Cruise, Cemberlitas Hammam

After a slightly later start than usual in keeping with the spirit of Sunday morning, we took the tram down to Eminonu, the ferry docks, 3 stops away. Today was the day of the Bosphorus Cruise. A lot has been said about it, my two cents worth is, its a nice relaxing way to spend some time on one of the great waterways, but if you are pressed for time, it can definitely rank lower down in terms of priority. 

There are basically two ways to approach the cruise. One is a full day excursion, all the way out to the Black Sea, to the last stop called Anadolu Kavagi. This is best done on the public boat which is cheap, efficient and plies the route everyday, with a snack bar on board. One can go all the way, have lunch and return, or can stop off at any other point on the way, but then one has to make way back using surface transport such as buses, which ply on both the Asian and European sides, with the European side having slightly better connectivity.

The second option is to go upto a certain point, usually the second bridge called the Fatih bridge and then return as a round trip without getting off anywhere. This is what we opted for as we did not want to spend the whole day on the water but at the same time, wanted the experience of going down the Bosphorus. 

Aside from the public boat, which generally gets very crowded, especially on holidays, there are many private boats which provide a similar experience, one just has to show up on the docks to be approached by ticket touts. We opted at random for one of these, it was just the ride, no commentary, no information, etc, but the guidebook was enough, and the bracing wonderful sea breeze made for a great half day. Whichever option you go for, remember to sit on the left side of the boat for the best views of both coasts. 

As you board the boat from Eminonu Pier, you can see the Galata bridge which traverses the Golden Horn connecting Sultanahmet to the European side. 

Also visible is the Suleymaniye Mosque on the hill behind Eminonu. Also a creation of the master architect Sinan, it was closed for renovation, but is apparently worth a look for its understated elegance as compared to the intricate ornamentation seen in other mosques.

A favourite with Istanbullis is a meal at the numerous fish restaurants under the Galata bridge.

One of the first structures on the European side is the Dolmabahce Palace. There are huge lines of tourists with long waiting periods for guided tours of the inside.  We decided to skip it, having seen numerous other palaces in Europe, we did not feel that it was a priority. One of the key design features is the crystal chandeliers, especially one by Waterford.  

After the suburb of Besiktas, which is where the Dolmabahce Palace, one gets the first glimpse of the Bosphorus Bridge. The iconic symbol of the city's perpetual importance as linking two great continents. 

On the European side soon after the facade of the famous luxury Ciragan Palace Hotel, where one might choose to stay if money were no object.

At the foot of the Bosphorus bridge nestles the suburb of Ortakoy, known for its delicious kumpir or jacket potato stalls. Jutting out is the facade of the pretty Ortakoy Jamii.

All along the banks near the suburb of ARnavutkoy are the yalis or old wooden houses which are treated as heritage monuments.

Just before the suburb of Bebek is the first glimpse of the second bridge, the Fatih Bridge.

The cruise is a good way to get a feel for Istanbul life away from the tourist areas. All along one catches authentic glimpses of suburban life.

One also gets a good idea of the quality of life that is likely to be enjoyed by affluent citizens, by looking at the homes and private boats along the coast. 

The Fatih bridge is flanked by the Rumeli Hisari or Fortress of Europe on the European side. Its complement on the Asian side is the fortress of Asia or the Anadolu Hisari which is not as readily visible. Just past the bridge were one to go further is the suburb of Kanlica which is very famous for its yoghurt.

Our boat turned around at the Fatih bridge and retraced the route providing a better perspective of the Asian side on the way back. One of the interesting monuments is the Beylerbeyi Sarayi with marble platforms for bathing in the water, as well as a marble changing pavilion for women bathers. 

A favourite Sunday pastime - fishing off the Galata bridge.

After a relaxing morning, we returned to Sultanahmet by tram and had lunch at The Cure. After browsing among some tourist shops, we returned to the hotel for a siesta and decided to venture into a Turkish hammam for the evening. We opted to go to the Cemberlitas Hammam, one stop further on from Sultanahmet, but we walked there in the balmy early evening. 

At reception, you are asked what kind of service you want. I opted for self service, while Gordon decided to go all out for the full service. Both of us were given loofahs. We parted to go into our respective gender areas. 

The changing rooms consist of small cubicles with many lockers which contain the pestemal or wrap around robe and disposable underwear. After changing and wrapping the pestemal, and putting things away in the locker, you enter the bath itself. It consists of a round room with several small enclosures leading off it with taps and basins. The centre of the room is a round, raised, underheated marble platform which is presided over by a dome with several starshape cutouts to let the light in, and this actually provides quite a nice atmosphere.

Most people start off by relaxing on the marble platform. After that, those who are getting service will be approached by the attendants who are also similarly dressed. A lot of people by this time had gone starkers. The attendents start by energetic sloughing off of dead skin using the loofah, followed by soap and wash your hair. 

Since I had opted for self service, I stepped into one of the enclosures and followed the same procedure for myself. After finishing, one emerges from the bath, towels off and returns to the changing room to change. 

I would strongly advise carrying moisturising lotion for after the bath to help soothe the newly exfoliated skin.

On the whole it was quite an experience, definitely worth doing. I would have preferred fewer people of course and I am still more in favour of the pampered Asian spa experience, but its definitely enjoyable.  

Dinner was at the Indian restaurant Dubb, which actually had great food, and was the perfect way to end a relaxed Sunday.

Turkey Day 4 - Istanbul : Spice Bazaar, Kapali Carsi (Grand Bazaar)

One of the great things about staying at Sari Konak is starting the day right with breakfast in the open courtyard by the house. Breakfast was a turkish spread of fresh bread, olives, nuts, feta cheese, tomatoes, eggs and tea/coffee. They also made a hot chocolate for me on request. 

Today we headed for the bazaar area of Istanbul. Taking the tram to Eminonu, we walked towards the Spice Bazaar. Along the street shoe polish guys with their elaborate kits offered their services.

The Spice or Egyptian Bazaar is well known for the spice shops. It also has souvenir shops and textile outlets, jewellery shops and a well known perfume or attar shop called Arifoglu located at No. 31.  It is a smaller and more manageable version of the Grand Bazaar.

We bought sweet paprika,pepper pods, local saffron, three types of tea, zahatar, etc. The find of the bazaar is a shop called Pinar (not the one in the picture below). It is on the right had side as you enter the bazaar from the front, that is, the seaside entrance, about 50 m into the bazaar. On the outside are pictures of the shop owner with the title "The Turkish Al Pacino" and with some celebrities. This shop is the only one that will sell genuine Spanish and Iranian saffron by weight. The others have ready sealed jars but one cannot guarantee the quality of the product. Here they weigh the saffron in front of you so you get a good chance to see and smell the saffron. Very expensive, but well worth it. 

After the Spice Bazaar we headed to Hamdi Restaurant for lunch. Every morning we would ask Sari Konak to make lunch and dinner reservations for us since we had a fairly good idea of the restaurants we wanted to visit. Hamdi is one where at lunch time getting a table without a reservation is difficult. Its traditional turkish fare, I enjoyed the Lentil Soup and Dolmas, while Gordon enjoyed the Kababs. While reserving try to ask for a table on the tiny balcony, there seem to be just 4 tables or so, and the view is great. 

Appetites satiated we headed to the Grand Daddy of Bazaars, the Kapali Carsi or Grand Bazaar. It is a covered bazaar and hence has a specific closing time, so best be aware of this, one does not want to get locked in for the night. The streets leading up to and spilling over around the bazaar also have many interesting shops. There are many souvenir, lamp, jewellery, textile and carpet shops. We had been warned about how crowded and claustrophobic it would be but as is evident from below, its very manageable. Most shops have a far better map of the bazaar than in the guidebooks showing specific areas that deal with specific kinds of wares, so its advisable to get one of these to give some structure to the browsing. 

At the end of the day we were bazaared out, and after heading back to the Sari Konak for a quick freshening up, we set off for dinner to Meditrina. This was a place that was featured in the NY Times. Its well off the well  beaten tourist track, in Ortakamii. We took the tram to Kabatas and then took a cab to the restaurant. They do great Italian cuisine and have an amazing view of the lights changing on the Bosphorus Bridge and the lit up mosque. Well worth it, and try and get a table  by the window for this great view. 

Other sights we would have liked to cover in the Bazaar area include :

1. Suleymaniye Mosque : Renowned for it relative simplicity as compared to its contemporaries, the mosque was undergoing renovation at the time of our visit.

2. Rustom Pasa Camii : Known for its ornate tilework 

3. Yeni Camii or New mosque : just opposite the tram stop at Eminonu, again for impressive tilework and a nice mihrab.

4. Book Bazaar : would make for an interesting browse for old etchings,prints and books.

5. Beyazit Square : just next to the book bazaar and the Istanbul university. Known for its many cafes and festive atmosphere.

Turkey Day 5 - Istanbul : Beyoglu

Beyoglu, which lies across the Galata Bridge on the other side of the Golden Horn is our second venture out from the traditional Sultanahmet and Bazaar areas. There are three ways to get there :

1. Walk across the Galata Bridge and then hike up the hill.

2. Walk across the Bridge and hike up to the lower end of the main street Istiklal Caddesi to the tram station called Tunel. The tram plies between the lower end of the street to the upper end which terminates at Taksim Square. 

3. In my opinion, the best way to get there is to take the tram to Kabatas and then the funicular up the hill. Then you can leisurely walk down the street ending at Tunel and then walk down to the bridge and across. 

The picture below is where one emerges after taking the funicular, at Taksim Square.

Among the streets leading off the Taksim Square at the exit near the funicular station is the main street of Istiklal Caddesi. The street is lined with cafes, branded stores and one off boutiques and makes for a pleasant browse. In total it is probably between 1 to 2 km. Along the way are monuments such as the Franciscan Church of St. Mary Draperis. A small statue of the virgin stands at the entrance and a miraculous icon hangs over the altar. One street in one finds the historic Pera Palace Hotel, which was the stop over point for guests travelling on the Orient Express. Their most famous personage was Dame Agatha Christie. One can view her room on request before enjoying a cocktail at the bar. 

I indulged in something I wanted to since I got here - kumpir, which is the Turkish name for jacket potatoes, smothered with spices, butter, cheese, different sauces and veggies or meat. Absolutely delicious.  

Lunch (for Gordon, I was still full from the kumpir) was at this old venerable cafe called Saray. It apparently has been around for many years and the mayor of Istanbul is said to have a stake in it. 

No matter how full I am, I can always make place for my new addiction - baklava. My favourite is the pistachio or fistikli baklava, green and delicious. Or be brave and go for the absolutely sinful double pistachio. The baklava at Saray was great but my hands down favourite baklava in Turkey was from Cigdem, located in Sultanahmet. 

Up ahead, the road curves to the left and at the corner is the entrance for the Cicek Pasagi, or the old flower market. 

Inside the Cicek Pasagi, the flower shops are long gone, replaced by trendy cafes and restaurants. The alleys behind Cicek Pasagi lead to the famous Galatasaray fish market and the Nevizade Sokak which comes alive in the evening with its numerous restaurants and street cafes. It is one of Istanbul's most colourful and popular eating precincts. 

Towards the end of the street  is the wonderful Turkish glass boutique Pasabahce. Their flagship and only store and they do not ship, so the only way to get your hands on their wonderful stuff is cash and carry. Arms full with our purchase we decided to take a taxi back to Sari Konak and deposit it in the room before leaving again. We wanted to see the Chora Church mosaics, but unfortunately they had closed an hour earlier than what was mentioned in all the guidebooks. Apparently, they are notorious for changing their timings so I would strongly advise checking with them before you make your way there. 

As things stood, we decided to take some down time and rest before heading back to Beyoglu for dinner at the hip and trendy 360. It is on the top floor of a heritage building and famous for its modern cuisine and spectacular view. They are almost always fully booked, so its best to make a reservation early on. Also request for a table on the balcony at the time of reservation. We were unable to get a table on the balcony, so we had our dinner indoors, but a table freed up in time for dessert and they were gracious enough to permit us to enjoy dessert at the balcony. the view is great, especially as the city is all lit up for Ramadan, but in all fairness we enjoyed the view from Meditrina a lot more. 

Other sights we would have liked to cover in this area, but could not due to shortage of time include :

1. Dolmabahce Palace : Reached either by getting off at the ferry dock at Besiktas or by bus from Taksim Square. Long lines for the tours which are the only way permitted to see the palace. Famous for the Lalique crystal chandeliers, which can just be glimpsed when passing by on the Bosphorus cruise.

2. Military Museum or Askeri Muzesi. We would have liked to see the Medieval Ottoman military band called the Mehter which performs every afternoon between 3 and 4 pm.

3. The Chora Church which we had scheduled for this afternoon but which we missed simply due to the confusion in timings. It is located on the Sultanahmet side, and best reached by a taxi. Combine it with a meal at the famous restaurant next door, the Asitane. 

We returned to the hotel and packed for our early departure the next morning. Istanbul was just the tip of the iceberg, all of Turkey was waiting for us.