We set off early the next morning to Shinjuku station, from where we took the JR Yamanote Line to Tokyo station. Since we would be travelling to Nikko using our JR Pass, using the JR network, we could not take the direct train to Nikko using the Tobu line, instead we had to get to Utsunomiya and then change for the train to Nikko. The platform at Tokyo station for the shinkansen or bullet train is shown in the picture below.
I think it would help to understand the layout of the general city train station. Think of it as a 3 tiered structure. The first tier at the very bottom, below the ground level, is the subway. The second tier, the ground level, is the main concourse with ticket offices, gates, kiosks, shops etc. The ground level is also where local trains that travel short distances and mainly used by commuters are accessed. The third tier is the top level and is where the shinkansen and long distance trains are accessed from, as they normally run on a system of elevated tracks independent of the tracks used by the local trains. Elevators and escalators ply between the three tiers and of course there are signs galore.
A small aside on the JR Pass. It makes sense to do the math while deciding on purchasing the pass. We made a list of all the train journeys we were likely to take and priced them on www.hyperdia.com
We then contrasted the total yen figure with what the pass costs and figured out that a 14 day pass made the best sense. This was the first day of using the pass for us and we used it for exactly 14 days. We were very satisfied with the ease and convenience of using it, all we had to do was show up at the gate, show the pass at the specified gate which normally said "Tickets with white backs only", and a JR attendant would politely wave us through. All seat reservations are free and can be cancelled and rebooked for no charge. As mentioned before, except for a couple of journeys we pretty much hopped into the unreserved cars at will, no problem.
Shortly before the indicated departure time, our very first shinkansen rolled in. I had heard about them from my uncle when I was young, and had seen the movie, so I was really looking forward to this. The JR Pass allows for travel on all Shinkansens except the Super Express Nozomi. It was the smoothest train ride I have ever had. These are engineering marvels, always on time, always stop where they are supposed to on the platform, and they look gorgeous !
We arrived at Utsunomiya and changed trains to Nikko. On arrival we opted to take a cab to the Nikko Kanaya Hotel which is situated a bit away from the train station but closer to the sights. We made a brief stop at the TIO at the train station to grab the bus schedules for Lake Chuzenji. We dumped our bags at the hotel reception, grabbed a map and set off. The hotel has a fairly steep driveway leading on to the main road.
The steps leading up to the World Heritage sights are literally a couple of minutes walk from the Kanaya hotel driveway. Nikko is famous for its temples and shrines in a beautiful setting amidst a cedar and pine wood forest.
I had read that the steps leading up to the shrines were a bit scary, but they were perfectly manageable. For the most part, it is a fairly easy ascent. One just keeps going higher and higher in short spells.
The first temple is the Rinna-ji temple with this magnificent font out front.
The next few pictures show the entrance to the temple, an old bell outside it, and wooden plaques tied onto a wishing tree.
After ascending higher from the Rinna-ji temple, one reaches the entrance to the main temple, the Todai-ji. Todai-ji is not just a single temple structure, rather a conclave of many different structures all arrayed at different levels, with the main temple at the highest point.
One of the first few buildings has this well know motif of the three monkeys. We in India call these "Gandhiji's three monkeys" as Mahatma Gandhi would always tell people to live by their motto - See No Evil, Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil.
One of the structures close to the entrance with detailed carvings and a colourful facade.
A rite replicated in and perhaps even originated from the Hindu culture of India, cleansing of the mouth and hands before entering a holy place. Here of course the water was ice cold mountain stream water.
Throughout Japan, the temples and shrines are spectacular, some with great architecture, some with beautiful gardens. I think the temples and shrines we saw at Nikko were by far the most ornamented and decorated, as is evident from the pictures below.
One of the smaller shrines had a wedding in progress, with the bride in the traditional white kimono.
As I mentioned, one of the really wonderful things is the location of the temples amidst these verdant forests.
We made our way to the other shrines on the hill. The way to the Futarasan Jinja is lined with ancient stone lanterns.
It was early afternoon when we walked back towards the hotel passing the old Shinto bridge. The bus stop for buses to the Lake Chuzenji area is a minute's walk to the right after exiting the driveway of the hotel.
We got off the bus one stop before the stop of Lake Chuzenji called Akechi Daira. There is a cable car which takes you up for a good view of the lake. Its very short, about 3 minutes, but well worth it.
The picture postcard view of the lake with the Kegon waterfall in the fore ground.
This sticker covered car was in the parking lot of the cable car base station when we returned and waited to re board the bus to the lake.
This was actually the coldest day of the entire trip as is evidenced by the snow and ice in this picture taken as we got off the bus at the Kegon Falls. That night, we actually had snow fall. In spite of being well covered up, it was still bitterly cold.
We took the elevator down to the falls. Luckily the falls were still, well, falling, and not frozen as they do when its this cold.
We walked around the lakefront area with shops and small cafes. Only Japanese food though. This shop had an interesting collection of gourds.
We made our way to the lake shore passing a giant torii or traditional red gate along the way.
We made our way back to the bus station and caught the bus back to Nikko. The original plan was to freshen up and then step out for dinner. We had caught sight of an Indian restaurant a stone's throw away from the station. The bitter cold made us reconsider and we decided to just rest in the room after a hot shower. Dinner was sandwiches from room service for Gordon and ramen cup noodles from my food stash for me. We had an early night as the next day had an early start for our journey to Kyoto.
