We made our way early morning with only our backpacks to Shinjuku station and to the Odakyu Romance Car platform. The Romance car has wide windows and a luxurious feel and quickly transports you to the main station in the Hakone area called Hakone-machi.
After disembarking, one simply has to walk across the platform to board the Hakone train, which switchbacks itself on up the mountain. Its a cute train, but there is not a lot of room for large luggage, better off using the luggage service either from Tokyo, or from Hakone-machi. We got off at Miyanoshita station and walked into town before finding our way to the Taisekkan ryokan cable car. Since it was still fairly early in the day, we left our luggage with them.
We walked back to the train station, stopping at the Naraya Cafe, where the tables come with their very own foot soaking pools ! So have your coffee, read your book, plan your day, and soak your feet in the warm restive waters at the same time.
We took the train to Gora station, planning to tackle the museum first and then deciding what else to do thereafter.
Our first, and as it turned out to be, only stop that day was at the Hakone Open Air Museum, which immediately has become one of my favourite museums. Hundreds of wonderful sculptural works beautifully arranged in a fabulous outdoor setting.
We stopped off at the museum cafeteria to peruse lunch options, and were rewarded with a very fulfilling and value for money buffet lunch. There were also some vegetarian options, enough for me to have a satisfying meal.
Thus fortified, we made our way onto the museum grounds. The few samples below are merely to tempt your taste buds, there is far far more to be seen, and it would be well advised to not under budget time here.
"Grande Heracles Archer" by Emile Antoine Bourdelle.
Fernand Leger's "La Fleur qi Marche".
The kids were having a field day with some of these colourful and interactive works.
A row of wonderful works by Emile Antoine Bourdelle.
Some of the works are kinetic sculptures like the one below called " Spheric Theme" by Naum Gabo.
"Personnage" by Joan Miro.
"The Hand of God" by Carl Milles.
One of the most amazing things about this museum. Where in the world can you soak your feet in the natural hot spring water that Hakone is so known for while contemplating all the great art surrounding you. Outstanding.
"Tete Endormie" by Igor Mitoraj.
A whole building is devoted to works by Picasso.
There are many Henry Moore works dotting the gardens, as well as an entire building near the entrance that commemorates his work.
"Miss Black Power" by Nikki de St. Phalle.
"Park in Rome" by Toshio Yodoi.
The museum is based on many levels and one finds these off the beaten track routes all over, with hidden gems to be discovered.
"La Pleureuse" by Francois Xavier and Claude Lalanne.
Our final stop was at the gift shop which is definitely worth a browse. We left the museum having spent much more time there than we thought we would, but thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon. Given the hour, it was too late to go anywhere else, so we made our way back to the train station and caught the train back to Miyanoshita.
Taisekkan is at the base of the valley alongside the river, and hence the only way to get to it is to take the ryokan's own private cable car.
The cable car descends for about 5 minutes into the valley before reaching the bottom.
Once out of the cable car, we walked through a beautiful verdant garden, before coming to the bridge spanning the river.
Taisekkan's location makes for an idyllic retreat.
We chilled out in our huge room whilst waiting for dinner.
More ume liqueur during the wonderful kaiseki meal.
After dinner we relaxed for a bit before heading into the onsens. Taisekkan has a total of 6 onsen, two indoor ones, one for each gender which open onto two outdoor ones which are rock pools, and during the day, the two are swapped between the genders, so that everyone can enjoy all the different onsen. Look for the noren on the entrance, pink is for girls and blue for the guys. Aside from these 4, there are also 2 lovely rotemburos in very scenic surroundings which can be booked for an hour of private use. We were going to be doing this the next day.
