After a long flight from Hong Kong to Doha, and then Doha to Istanbul, we were finally in a cab on our way to the Sari Konak Hotel, having arranged for them to send a car to pick us up. Under a perfect Mediterranean blue sky and redolent breeze, we were soon riding parallel to the majestic Bosphorus looking at the skyline with hills, bridges and minarets opening up in front of us. Within 20 minutes we turned inward towards the old Sultanahmet district and drove up winding narrow streets to the Hotel.
We checked in and collected our tickets for the Whirling Dervish sema ceremony at the train station from Mustafa at the front desk, as the hotel had reserved them for us in advance. Post a short rest for a few hours we emerged in the late afternoon sun and elected to walk to the train station.
The very first sight as soon as we emerged from our little street just off the Aya Sofya Maydani was the first postcard perfect view of the magnificent Blue Mosque.
Directly opposite the Blue Mosque, across gardens filled with fountains and people relaxing on a lazy Saturday afternoon is the imposing bulk of the Aya Sofya.
We followed the tramlines along an undulating and gently downward sloping route towards the railway station, reaching it in about 15 minutes. The Sirkeci railway station is currently operating but is scheduled to be closed soon to be converted into a museum. It was the starting point for the legendary Orient Express.
Inside the grand waiting hall of the station while waiting for the ceremony to begin, I read the pamphlet enclosed with the ticket to understand more of what we were going to see. The Whirling Dervishes belong to the Mevalana Sufi sect and they believe in peace and goodwill and the constant striving to achieve oneness with God.
The ceremony started with the entrance of the musicians and singers dressed in the traditional costumes of long black cloaks over white flowing garments and the signature cream headgear. The first few minutes were spent in invoking the name of God through Sufi hymns.
After that, the Dervishes entered. There were 5 of them and they would go through 5 rounds of whirling. They spread sheepskins on the floor and bowed to the audience and each other before removing their black cloaks.
In each cycle, the dervishes would slowly start spinning at first with their arms folded and then finally in the classic position of arms outstretched above with one palm pointing upwards and the other downwards signifying that whatever they get, they get from God and they pass it on to their fellow human beings without retaining anything for themselves. The dervishes believe that the very act of rotating helps them to empty their mind of worldly thoughts and allows them to achieve union with God.
The ceremony lasted about 45 minutes, after which we elected to take the tram back the two short stops. We bought the tram tokens or jetons from the manned ticket counters and were back in no time. Since we were visiting in the month of Ramzan, the streets were alive with people thronging to cafes and food outlets to break their fasts, and the fact that it was a weekend only added to the general bonhomie.
Our first dinner in Istanbul just a couple of minutes away from the hotel with a streetside table to people watch comfortably.
We followed the tramlines along an undulating and gently downward sloping route towards the railway station, reaching it in about 15 minutes. The Sirkeci railway station is currently operating but is scheduled to be closed soon to be converted into a museum. It was the starting point for the legendary Orient Express.
Inside the grand waiting hall of the station while waiting for the ceremony to begin, I read the pamphlet enclosed with the ticket to understand more of what we were going to see. The Whirling Dervishes belong to the Mevalana Sufi sect and they believe in peace and goodwill and the constant striving to achieve oneness with God. 
The ceremony started with the entrance of the musicians and singers dressed in the traditional costumes of long black cloaks over white flowing garments and the signature cream headgear. The first few minutes were spent in invoking the name of God through Sufi hymns.
After that, the Dervishes entered. There were 5 of them and they would go through 5 rounds of whirling. They spread sheepskins on the floor and bowed to the audience and each other before removing their black cloaks.
In each cycle, the dervishes would slowly start spinning at first with their arms folded and then finally in the classic position of arms outstretched above with one palm pointing upwards and the other downwards signifying that whatever they get, they get from God and they pass it on to their fellow human beings without retaining anything for themselves. The dervishes believe that the very act of rotating helps them to empty their mind of worldly thoughts and allows them to achieve union with God.
The ceremony lasted about 45 minutes, after which we elected to take the tram back the two short stops. We bought the tram tokens or jetons from the manned ticket counters and were back in no time. Since we were visiting in the month of Ramzan, the streets were alive with people thronging to cafes and food outlets to break their fasts, and the fact that it was a weekend only added to the general bonhomie.
Our first dinner in Istanbul just a couple of minutes away from the hotel with a streetside table to people watch comfortably. 
